10+ Fragrant Lily Species Lilium kesselringianum Seeds

Description: A rarely seen species Lily worth adding to your collection. Not difficult to grow from seed if you follow the directions carefully, and have a wee bit of patience. The beautiful, fragrant large golden flowers are spotted with flecks of purple. The coloring is darker in the center of the petals, and lighter at the edges. The stems stand 4 to 5 feet tall with 5 to 10 blooms on each stem in July and August. Lilium kessselringianum is native to the Caucasus mountains where it is a rare and endangered species. The plants are now cultivated from seed. The unsurpassed grace and beauty of this lily makes it a lovely addition to the garden. Lilies love full sun, but will do well in partial shade. They tolerate hot summer days, as long as the bulbs are deep enough to remain cool. Lower plants surrounding the lilies will help protect their roots from drying out. Lilies make an excellent cut flower with long lasting blooms and buds that continue to mature and open after cutting. Exposure: Full Sun Soil: Moderate Plant Shape: Upright Bloom Time: May - June Bloom Color: Yellow Landscape Use: Bedding or Border; Specimen Plant Wildlife Interest: Attracts Birds; Attracts Butterflies Plant Type: Bulb Hardiness Zone: 4 - 7 Germination Instructions: These seeds are easy to germinate - sow in trays or pots and lightly cover with soil. Keep soil moist but not overly soggy, germination occurs anywhere from 1-4 weeks. Keep protected and allow to grow until they’ve filled in the container and then they can be planted out in spring through early autumn (year round in the Deep South where there is no frost). They will form large Lily-bulbs and grow and clump; best to divide every 3-4 years. I like to use a good balanced fertilizer 2-3 times per year, and particularly add a handful of bone meal into the planting hole when first transplanting. Helpful Guide on Starting Lilies from Seed (Courtesy of the RHS Lily Group) Most lily species are quite easy to raise from seed. With most, you don’t need to use a glasshouse. The only “special equipment” needed is patience: though with special care a few species will flower in their first year from sowing, most take two or three years First place a layer of broken crocks in the bottom of the pot Then cover with a layer of coarse grit. Fill the pot with compost to the internal level mark and firm lightly. Sow the seeds separately on top of this compost. About ten seeds is right for a pot of this size, denser sowing can result in the seedlings being too close making damping off problems more likely. Viable seeds will have an embryo visible as a thin line when held up to the light. Most lily seed is large enough that it can be sown on edge with the embryo downwards and this is the best method provided that care is taken not to damage it. Try to space the ten or so seeds equally. If you have lots of seed of one species either use several pots, a deep tray (not a normal seed tray which is not suitable for lilies) or even sow them in a row in the garden or under cover. When all the seeds are in place, top the pot with about 1cm thickness of the same compost mix and firm gently. If you plan to leave the pots outside then it may be better to top with grit rather than compost as this will protect the seeds from being washed out of the compost by heavy rain. Put in a label with the name of the lily and any other information you think relevant, the date and the number of seeds for example. After sowing place the pot in a bowl of water and allow the water to soak the compost by capillary action. Let the pot drain and then either put it out of doors, in a shady spot (some people like to cover the pots with a cloche or cold frame, as protection against very wet weather, slugs, and scratching birds and animals) or seal it, using a twist tie, in a clear plastic freezer bag. This will ensure that the seeds are safe and consistently moist until germination. The pots, inside their bags are best stored in a shed or garage and checked regularly. Germination and Aftercare Some lilies produce an onion-like seed leaf upon germination. This is known as epigeal germination and may occur after a few weeks in lilies such as L. regale or be delayed as in L. carniolicum. Others including L. martagon and most North American lilies such as L. pardalinum develop below ground initially, not showing a leaf until the following spring. This kind is known as hypogeal germination. A few species exhibit other kinds of germination. It is very helpful to know which kind of germination to expect as it will guide the grower as to when seed pot checking will be most appropriate.Once the seedlings are visible remove the bag if you have used this method and then move the pot to a suitable growing position. Try to keep the pot just nicely moist, and cool in hot weather. If you can keep the seedlings growing into winter for their first year (in a heated greenhouse), they will establish much more quickly.Essential rule: don’t let the compost get soggy – avoid over-watering! Liquid feeding speeds growth, but without feeding you may get an even better root system, and plants that are more resistant to disease.Keep a close eye out for greenfly, which love tender young lily leaves – as do slugs and snails.Keep the young lilies in their seed pot until they are a good size (say two years). Then pot in a similar compost with a slow-release fertiliser, or plant out in well-drained soil or a raised bed. This is often done after foliage has died down but the young plants can be successfully moved on whilst in growth if great care is exercised.Don’t abandon a bare seed pot until after at least three years, as some lilies can delay germination until they have been through several seasonal cycles.If you'd like to see all the plants and seeds I currently have available: Check out my other seeds and plants for sale

Price: 6.95 USD

Location: Gate City, Virginia

End Time: 2024-09-27T01:23:30.000Z

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